Arrival: Vanuatu!

As we sail along with our Code Zero and main, we notice something about the waves…hmmm, they look familiar. Have we been here before? Actually, we have – our current route to Vanuatu is now crossing our route last year from Fiji to New Caledonia. We know the winds are going to drop and feel lucky to sail as long as we do. The starboard engine goes on for the night, an uneventful and comfortable evening.

As the sun rises, there is an island – Aneityum, the southern most inhabited island of Vanuatu. The fishing line whirs and we bring a nice skipjack into the boat, what a gift. I can already taste the tuna steaks, poke, sushi, and sashimi. We’ll take a break from beans!

In the distance is our destination – Tanna Island, a distinctive cloud rising from it – Mount Yasur, widely recognized as the most easily accessible active volcano in the world. We hope to be anchored off it this evening at Port Resolution.

Calder points off a large black floating platform in the water – a FAD (Fish Aggregating Device) – and says, “Wait for it…” Then the fishing line whirs. It’s a barracuda that we let back to the ocean. Barracuda are released in Vanuatu because they pose a high risk of causing Ciguatera Fish Poisoning due to toxins that accumulate in their flesh from reef algae.

Up goes our Vanuatu courtesy flag, as well as our yellow Q-flag (quarantine).

As we got closer and closer to the island of Tanna, we were stunned by the level of volcanic activity with huge plumes rolling out. Hmmm, that’s more active than we thought it would be. We’re still undecided about hiking up to it. A local man, who I’ve been in touch with, about hiking it said, “Yes, that’s normal. The volcano is always releasing steam, ash, and gas.”

Anchor down at 2:30pm in Port Resolution, Tanna Island, Vanuatu.

Smells of jungle and coconut fires. Men in their traditional fishing boats around us fishing with nets. The warmth. We are back in the tropics.

We wait for further instructions on how and when to clear in, not sure if it will be today or tomorrow. As Port Resolution is not an “official” port of entry, we need to coordinate Customs, Immigration, and Biosecurity to come from Lenakel across the island. I had sent all the official paperwork to the main Vanuatu Customs office, as well as sent a WhatsApp message to a local here, Werry. He had left it at, “Stay on VHF 16 and we’ll call you.”

About an hour after anchor down, there is a message on VHF 16 in a mix of English and Bislama. Bislama is the national language of Vanuatu, a Melanesian creole based primarily on English with influences from local Ni-Vanuatu languages and French. Initially we thought they wanted us to pick them up and bring them out to the boats, but then it became clear that they wanted us to head to shore. A group of three boats that had arrived today all went to shore, parking our dinghies amongst traditional fishing outriggers, then climbed up the hill through jungle brush to a few covered tables where we cleared in on a hillside overlooking the bay. Classic!

All checked in and back to our boats, we lower our Q-flag, prep and eat fresh tuna poke, and crash into bed. Good night all.

24 hour total: 139 nm

Total miles from Opua, New Zealand to Port Resolution, Vanuatu: 1,127 nm

Average speed: 5.8 knots