Passage Making:Maupihaa to ?

Day 1:  Due to our last-minute decision of leaving today (rather than tomorrow), there was suddenly much to get accomplished.  Calder and Chris scrubbed the hull, attached our Code Zero sail, and secured the dinghy.  Cora and I prepped passage food, prepared schoolwork that could be done underway, and cleaned the boat.  For this passage, school will consist of online Spanish, history videos, and Audible Lord of the Rings in preparation for New Zealand.  We left Maupihaa at 2pm, out the narrow slot of a pass, reef visible on either side. 

Winds 15-20 knots, sailing along around 6-7 knots speed, waves about 2 meters.  All of the 12 boats in our current anchorage emptied out to take this passage, a mediocre one, but perhaps the best we can ask for in this part of the world.  As there is a storm band both behind us and ahead of us, we are routing northwards a bit to hopefully get above it, as well as to keep the option of Suwarrow (a remote atoll) open if weather changes, as it is a safe anchorage. 

We are all feeling well enough to eat a mellow dinner, which tonight is basic salmon/veg pasta, kind on the stomach.  I have prepped 3 dinners ahead of time to eat these first days, as our bodies are adjusting to the constant movement.  We moved into our watch schedule of Jen/Cora 8-midnight, Calder taking the dreadful midnight-4am (his choice), and Chris with the morning 4-8am.  Of course, Chris is always “on call,” which is why he gets that lovely sunrise shift as a gift.  I wake up, make him coffee and we visit until the kids wake up.

Day 2:  We think we may luck out and skirt around this first smaller squall band.  Fishing lines are in the water and we’ve lost a couple fish….  Well, never mind, we landed on the edge of the squall, rain and wind on the nose, with confused seas.  

Out the other side of the squall line, we find relative calm.  We are now motoring and trying to determine the best destination.  We’ve had a good 24 hours with average speed 6.2 knots and total distance of 150nm.  At night, we are motoring on gently rolling seas with a sunset sky of oranges, blues, and purples; stunning.  Easy night passage, a buddy boat just off our port, a reassuring light in the dark new moon skies.

Day 3:  Overnight cascade of phosphorescence as Terikah plows through the water, motoring along with no wind.  On our 3,000nm Pacific crossing, we surprisingly had no experience of “the doldrums.”  I feel as if we are getting that experience now, gliding through the gentle swells of the ocean.  I’m able to cook, bake bread, maybe even read later today. 

On the bow, looking at the ocean, I’m struck with the idea of “the ocean within.”  Our freshwater source is desalination of ocean water, the fish we eat, the crests and troughs just like the ups and downs of life.  We are part of the water cycle itself through water, tears, urine, sweat.  Later today, we will decide on our destination based on weather; definitely an exercise in letting go of control for this Type A couple.  I can choose a destination or a time to get there, not both; this is up to Neptune. 

We have had SO many hits on our fishing rods, but the fish keep getting off.  We finally were gifted with a large tuna; dinner of poke was delicious tonight!  The last open ocean fish Calder caught was on our passage from the Tuamotus to the Societies, about 1 ½  months ago! 

We’ve made a decision – we are heading to Niue.  I admit to feeling a bit nervous about this.  This may be potentially challenging, as we are currently trying to “outrun” a system coming from the east behind us that has big seas and winds which we have dubbed, “the beast from the east.”  Then we may have to slow down to allow another to cross in front of us.  It will be an active passage with decisions along the way; so thankful to have a weather expert helping us out!  Also, there are squalls to be mindful of, which can carry heavy rains and wind gusts.  Today rained a bit, so we filled up our water tanks.

Day 4:  Night watch was uneventful, sailing at times, motor-sailing at times, trying to keep an average speed of 6 knots in these light winds.  Swell on the beam is never comfortable, started out bigger, then decreased by this morning.  The next 48 hours may have potential for bigger seas, bigger waves, and thunderstorms/squalls.  Our entertainment for the day:  Our buddy boat, Gambler, needed a lighter for their cooking; they used up all their matches and their lighter is out.  The idea of another 5-6 day passage without cooking was not ideal for them, so we came up with a plan.  We put 2 lighters (and a couple other treats as well) into a huge plastic water container with a lid, tied with a long rope to an oyster farm bouey. 

They moved closer and closer until we were only a few boat lengths apart and we launched it; they came along side the floats and hooked them with a boat hook – success!  This is how you lend something to a neighbor in the middle of the Pacific Ocean!