Chacala, a Swell Anchorage


Terikah at anchor off Chacala, a bit of surf

After successfully pulling our anchor at Isla Isabel, we set off for the town of Chacala, 55 nm away on mainland Mexico.  Our start was a bit slow, dodging a fishing line (typically marked by jugs ranging from 1 L to 5 gallon plastic soda bottles), then having issues raising the screecher that kept getting twisted.  Finally, all was well and we hoisted our mainsail and Code 0 for a lovely slow 3.5 knot sail until the wind disappeared completely and we motored along. 

A highlight of the passage was Calder catching his biggest mahi (dorado) yet; SO thankful to have fresh fish for dinner and plenty to vacuum-pack for the freezer. 

Calder and his biggest Dorado (Mahi) ever, a gift

Next he caught a new species for us – Jack? Pompano? – consulted local experts and we had caught a Pacific Crevalle Jack, not the best eating.  Caught another one that perished in the fight and we decided to stop fishing, not wanting to push our luck with Neptune. We are all learning to do the tasks on the boat, first learning then teaching someone else.  Chris had taught Calder the watermaker and, on this passage, Calder ran it himself and taught me.

Calder teaching Jen how to use the watermaker

All our reading warned us to set a stern anchor in the clear blue Chacala anchorage due to ocean swell and we were happy that we did.  After setting the main anchor off the bow as usual, we loaded up another anchor in our dingy and dropped it further out from the stern of our boat toward shore.  The idea is that this keeps our bow pointed into the swell during light winds, instead of swinging around and taking it beam on (sideways), which makes for a very uncomfortable experience.  The swell was significant, as shown by the red flags on the beach warning swimmers of the sea state.  Despite the stern anchor, we still moved quite a bit to the point where Chris felt seasick at anchor. 

Setting a stern anchor
We left the desert of Sea of Cortez…and arrived to the jungle of mainland Mexico

The next day, all of us a bit uncomfortable in the swell, was declared a town day and we went to shore.  Chacala is delightful, a small town on the beach with coconut-palm lined jungle all around, many shoreline restaurants in the sand. 

We checked in (and out) at the Port Captain’s office, then had a wonderful brunch at Lalaxtli; so pleased with my avocado toasts and fresh-squeezed orange juice in the unique setting of Ficus trees grown into the remains of an old brick 1600’s armory. 

Brunch at Lalaxtli, plants growing into the bricks of the old armory

Walking through town, Chris pointed out the carefully placed straight rows of cobblestone for tires amidst seemingly random cobbles, as well as building structures that wouldn’t meet code. 

Walking through the streets of Chacala

It was an odd mix of regular homes next to high-end condos for sale, prices listed on them in USD (US dollars).  Found a few abarrotes (small grocery stores with limited supply) where I bought some much wanted fruit and veg before heading down for a walk on the beach.  The surf was impressive and slightly scary to look out at Terikah amidst the swell. 

Streets of Chacala
The lush green of the mainland

The next morning was thankfully uneventful as we pulled our stern anchor, the boat swung around, and we pulled our bow anchor.  A bit of delight as we pulled up a tiny clear octopus that crawled around, tickling our palms.  On our way to Banderas Bay! One month until departure to French Polynesia…


3 responses to “Chacala, a Swell Anchorage”

  1. Dang, how was the dinghy landing in that surf? We anchored there and decided to stay on the boat until the next day to make sure we were secure. We were awoken around 2 am when our stern anchor broke loose and we became beam on to the swell. At that point we were up so we just hauled anchor and headed south, never got to go ashore. Looks like a lovely town though!

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