Ua Pou is sheer craggy basalt rock coalesced into various patterns and formations that we could not take our eyes off, as we rounded the southern tip up the western side of the island to our destination of Hakahetuau.
Into the anchorage, huge basalt pillars jut up out of the valley reaching into the clouds. Stunning. It feels like Lord of the Rings. Birds fly around the magical spires…or are those dragons?
The island of Ua Pou has 2,300 residents and a collection of 12 total pointy pinnacles. Oave, the tallest at around 4,000 feet, is the most “powerful” spire in the Marquesas. These spires are the ancient magma cores (volcanic plugs) of past volcanoes that have been eroded around them.
Off to Hakahetau for exploration; tied up our dinghy to the protected pier, and walked through town.
We are struck by the tidiness of the yards and streets: the narrow well-kept cement road with drainage ditches (cleaned) alongside, neatly groomed yards and trimmed brush, pretty yard art of driftwood draped with flowers and lichen.
Past the colorful school and post office, we spy a large rock with the word “Cascade” and an arrow pointing down a dirt road – off we go!
The dirt road winds through the lush valley, up and up, with glimpses of the spires from different vantage points.
We go past honeybee houses, goats, and hogs. And then two blue signs: “MANFRED 1500m, SChoko-MANN.”
We walk another bit and come to another blue sign that reads simply: “MANFRED” with an arrow. We continue on, pass under a blue arch “Manfred Ville. TUKUA.” We have found the chocolate man and are now on his off-grid property in the jungle, where the 71-year-old German man lives with his Polynesian wife, chickens, cats, and dogs. Yes, we’ll sit at the bench and eat chocolate in your outdoor kitchen. He speaks some English and conveys that he’s lived here for almost 30 years, did all the work by brute strength (asks me to feel his biceps), and used to run the powerlines here as a helicopter pilot. This dude is totally legit. And this scene is totally out there.
We pick 5 flavors (ginger, mac nut, mocha, mint, and orange) at 600F per tablette (about $25USD for 5 large bars of homemade chocolate) and head out back the direction from which we came to find the cascade (French for waterfall), eating chocolate along the way.
A small trail winds through the valley and across a stream to Cascade Vaiea; a picturesque waterfall cascading into the perfect swimming basin below.
The cool water is so refreshing, chilling us to the core in a very pleasing way; we Alaskans finally do not feel hot. Ahhh…
We get out of the water and do not linger, the memory of No-nos still written on Calder and my appendages, walking back to our dinghy just in time for sunset on the magical spires. I realize how tired I am, limited sleep and then the most exercise we’ve had in over a month, throw some quesadillas at the family and crash into bed.
Happy Mother’s Day! We went snorkeling with the crew of another boat; getting more comfortable as we swam in a huge school of mackerel, over three large rays, into a rocky cove with the swell gently lifting us up and down, watching so many little colorful fish nibble on coral growth. Then off to lunch.
Ti’Piero is a family-run eatery that takes reservations for lunch. I had contacted the chef two days prior to make our reservation, which happened to be on Mother’s Day; perfect!
He, his son, and grandson work together. We enjoyed fish 4-ways with a potato vegetable roll, as well as pork two different ways, Hinano, pineapple juice, crème brulee and espresso. It was a wonderful meal and the location and chef’s personality made it even more so.
A nice walk through town, saw an eel in the fresh water stream and a squashed 4 inch long centipede with its pincers.
Picked a couple mangos and Calder got two coconuts down.
The next day, we were under way early in case our next destination’s anchorage was full and we would have to go another 25 miles to Nuka Hiva.
There were already 6 boats behind the breakwater, but we anchored just outside this and set a stern anchor; pretty comfortable and the swell minimal. Hakahau is Ua Pou’s largest settlement and the third largest village in the Marquesas, set in a valley surrounded by more spires; it is clear why some call Ua Pou “Cathedral Island.”
Off to explore town, another well-kept town with painted tires of flowers lining the road, brightly painted buildings, sculptures and tikis lining the water walkway.
Just like in Mexico, villages seem to have numerous small grocery stores and we did the circuit of them all, each a bit different in their offerings. I was excited to find eggs, apples, saltines, canned tomatoes, and cheese; success! Back at the boat, we dug into the coconuts, the kids drinking the water and all of us eating the meat. Calder worked on cleaning up and sanding the nut into a bowl for me as a birthday present.
Woke up Calder early to get to the boulangerie (bakery), which was busy with local students by the time we arrived at 6:45am. We picked up numerous goodies, namely excited about our first French Marquesan croissants. As we walked back, we managed to devour a few buttery treats. Walking on the beach, a large beautiful cowrie washed up, presenting itself as a gift from the ocean.
Back to town to find the Centre Artisanal, which had 3 large rooms full of tables, each with an artist’s name and location with their artwork; stunning. We bought some Confitures Goyave vanille (guava vanilla topping), shell earrings for Cora, and another seed anklet and earrings for me; enjoying chatting in French, Marquesan, and English with the ladies working there. Outside the building, an artist was carving large painted seeds with various designs and Cora picked one out that he carved her name into, then had Calder pick one out for himself for free…oh, and here, have two pamplemousse from my yard too. So generous.
He taught us some more Marquesan sayings and encouraged us to go next door to the Co-Op Agriculture, where we sat down and had juice (mango and pamplemousse) freshly squeezed with over-the-top flavor. This life here is so colorful and vivid and delicious; we are just drinking it up. I’ve enjoyed being a witness to the daily life in Hakahau, from watching the kids go to school and hearing the bell ring in between classes, from hearing the deep drumbeats from town to seeing a dance class outside on the beach, from watching people out cleaning and tending their yards to watching the men in their outriggers surf the waves right near our boat.
SV Terikah Adventures 